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Salina was my favorite of the Aeolian Islands that we visited throughout our stay on the islands. Known as the “green island,” and recognizable by its double hump in the center of the island, it’s a beautiful island with a few different areas to check out – this island could definitely be explored throughout multiple days. However, we only had one day to devote fully to Salina, and would recommend the following on your trip:
Visiting Pollara
The first area in the island we’d recommend visiting is Pollara. Start your day with a pastry or brioche and grantia at L’Oasi Snack-Bar to get ready for the day.
Spaggia di Pollara
When ready, the Spaggia di Pollara is a great first stop of the day. This beach isn’t the most accessible on the island – a long drive down to a dead-end road that leads to a fairly steep staircase is the way to get onto the beach. However, even with the relative difficulty in getting here, the beach is really small and does fill up as the day goes on, which is why it’s my recommendation to go first thing before the crowds fill up. Along the way, you’ll find signs from the film Il Positino, where some shots from the movie were filmed (and the locals won’t let you forget it.) This beach was beautiful, with crystal clear water and really cool lava bricks and windows carved into the rock from old fisherman’s houses that are there. You can also see the island of Filiculi from the beach, a gorgeous view! There are rocks you can hang out on, and equipment like kayaks and snorkels you can rent. We rented snorkels here and it was one of my favorite spots to snorkel that I remember – there are a ton of fish that are easy to spot in the clear water. Just be careful not to step on the coral to keep it intact! The beach starts to fill up around noon, so visiting in the morning is a great way to check out this incredibly unique area before the crowds.
On the way to Malfa, take a quick stop at the Punto Panoramico di Pollara for a last view of the fantastic Pollara bay. The drive to Malfa is a pretty one. The Irish Caffe is a popular lunch spot and a popular place to alight and walk around as there are a lot of shops and picturesque churches such as the Chiesa dell’Immacolata to step into. We ate at A’Lumeredda, a casual lunch spot that seemed to attract tourists and locals alike, that I had a fantastic meal at. There is also a local winery, the Azienda Agrocola Barbanacoli that was closed when we were in town but we heard was a great local winery run by a young couple in town.
After lunch and strolling around the Malfa old town, head to your second beach of the day, the Spaggia dello Scario, right In Malfa. This was one of the funniest beaches I’ve been to, although I wouldn’t recommend if (again) you don’t like hikes down to the beach or large rocks. Any fans of sandy beaches may be turned off on sight of this beach, because it’s really less of a beach than thousands of giant boulders. There is a bar area selling food, drinks, and inflatable rafts that you can lay on at the “beach” as well as in the water. I walked out wanting to always take an inflatable raft to the beach! It’s a gorgeous view from down here though, and the water again is beautiful to swim in. We stayed here for a few hours, just enjoying the atmosphere, warm water, and rafts.
After the beach
Make your way to a winery to while away the rest of the afternoon. We chose the Hauver winery, near the Lingua town on the island, for a cute backyard area with sunset views and the opportunity to check out a new area. They often hold exhibitions within the brewhalls and we were lucky enough to catch one with fish art by a local Salina artist. The island is famous for Malvasian wine, which has been grown here for centuries. This winery is attributed with bringing winemaking back to the island after a noted pause. Any tasting you try should include a glass of this native sweet wine.
If you still have time before dinner, our favorite place to enjoy the day wind to a close is terre di Salina. Right outside of the main square and church, the Chiesa di Santa Marina, this lively outdoor bar is a great place to sit and watch the townspeople end their days. For dinner, try Nni Lausta (an earned Michelin star), Casa Lo Sciavo, or Porto Bella in Santa Marina. Da Alfredo was also highly recommended, although we didn’t make it there (but is a great alternative to staying in Lingua after your winery trip.)