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Lucerne, Switzerland. Nested near the mountains of the Swiss Alps, on the shores of Lake Lucerne, this city is the picturesque Swiss escape of my dreams. With an Old Town right out of a storybook and local cuisine consisting of cheesy fondues, crispy potatoes, buttery schnitzels, cuts of meat, not to mention Swiss chocolate, Lucerne shouldn’t be missed on any central Europe itinerary. We spent two nights in Lucerne, and wished we had more time to admire the beautiful scenery. Here’s how we’d recommend spending your time:
Old Town (Aldstrat)
For the first day in Lucerne, we’d recommend start out by exploring the iconic city and Old Town (Aldstrat).
After grabbing a Swiss pastry or breakfast sandwich for breakfast from Backerei Brunner AG or Bachmann, both on the south bank of the river, check out the Jesuitenkirche, considered by many to be one of the prettiest churches in Switzerland. Its interior has a beautiful painted ceiling and a large wooden altar. It’s domed exterior catch the eye from many locations across the Ruess River. Steps away from the church lies the Kapelbrucke, or Chapel Bridge. Built in the 14th century and considered to be the oldest covered bridge in Europe, this may be the most famous landmark in the city. Don’t forget to look up as you traverse it – there are a series of triangular colored panels across the ceiling as you walk across, depicting pieces of Swiss history, including the biographies of the Patron saints of the city.
The water tower, or Wasserturm, is connected to the bridge. The water tower was constructed around the same time of the bridge and was used at various times as an archive, prison, treasury, and torture chamber.
Across the bridge, St. Peter’s Chapel welcomes you into the heart of Old Town, or Altstadt. Spend some time admiring the various buildings or stall s that pop up within the Kappellplatz, or Chapel Square. When we were there, there was a variety of cheese, meat, and wine stalls to choose from, offering up free samples and selections for purchase. Throughout Altstadt, the squares are aplenty, with Kornmarkt, Weinmarkt, and Muhlenplatz all providing open air views of surrounding churches, cafes and restaurants. Any of these markets provide excellent stops for lunch, with Mill’Feuille and Brasserie Bodu providing additional options for those who’d prefer to sit down.
After lunch, continue onward to the Hofkirche St. Leodgar, another popular Church with twin pillars. Nearby is the Lion Memorial, a huge lion statue that commemorates Swiss fighters from the French Revolution. From here, feed your cultural impulses. Lucerne offers a number of museum options to choose from, or alternatively, a climb through the ancient city walls, an attraction known as Museggmauer.
We stopped into the Glacier Garden, right outside of the Lion Memorial. This museum highlights local history, dating back to a time when Lucerne was covered in ice glaciers, demonstrating how rocks flowed down with glaciers millions of years ago. It was interesting to see and read about the history of the region, and the museum felt very interactive, as there were sections where you can walk by and see walls carved by glaciers. The museum felt very family friendly, and we personally felt a bit old for it.
Some other highly recommended museums include the Swiss Museum of Transportation, the Rosengart Collection, the Richard Wagner Museum, and the Bourbaki Panorama Lucerne. We didn’t make it to these, but had we had more time, we definitely would have stopped inside.
If museums aren’t your thing, head over to the Museggmauer for a chance to scale the old city walls and experience fantastic views over the city. This was one of the things I enjoyed the most throughout our stay in Lucerne. This complex hosts nine Towers and the wall itself, where travelers can walk in between the towers and up to get inside them. Directly behind the wall is a farm restaurant, the Hinter Musegg Farm, that is organic, offers food and beverages, as well as farm animals behind stable doors.
Before dinner, check out the Rathaus Breuerie back on the Reuss River for some local brews with a fabulous view. This would be a great spot to catch a sunset.
Our dinner was at the Old Swiss House and it was fantastic. Serving local specialties, Weinerschnitzel cooked tableside, and a fine wine list, a reservation is highly recommended.
Second Day
On your second day, consider a day trip!
The three big day trips from Lucerne are Mount Rigi, Mount Titlis, and Mount Pilatus.
All three are worth visiting, and all have their own advantages. A high level description of each follows:
Titlis: The highest of the 3 mountains at 3000 meters, Titlis hosts an array of mountainous activities, including a Cliff Walk (the highest suspension bridge in Europe), the world’s first rotating cable car, Glacier Cave, Mountain Lake, and a Glacier Park in the summer months. If you’re after a wide range of experiences and activities to choose from, or like the ideas of a snow-topped mountain (even in summer), Titlis is a great option for you.
Mount Rigi: For stunning views of the surrounding mountains, an easy excuse to sneak in the famed boat rides on Lake Lucerne, the chance to ride up a cogwheel mountain train to the top, great hiking, and a potential spa break, Rigi is the choice for you. We got some incredible views at Rigi, the views were unmatched.
Mount Pilatus: This was the only option we didn’t try but is very popular with tourists. This day trip is a little bit closer to Lucerne and has a variety of options as well, with a ropes course, the longest toboggan run in Switzerland, a cogwheel railway, and a variety of hiking options.
For us, Rigi and Pilatus seemed to offer similar options in that both boasted incredible views, cogwheel trains, and the chance to boat on Lake Lucerne. For that reason, our first choice was Titlis, since it seemed the most unique and would be interesting to check out snowy mountains outside of the winter season. We loved both Titlis and Rigi, and by all accounts online, Pilatus also sounds great as well, so I don’t think you can really go wrong in your day trip options!
Lucerne Old Town Walking Tour:
Start at Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrücke):
Begin your walking tour at the Chapel Bridge, one of Lucerne’s most iconic landmarks. Take in the views of the Reuss River and the Water Tower.
Water Tower (Wasserturm):
Visit the Water Tower, which is part of the Chapel Bridge. It has served various purposes throughout history and offers a glimpse into Lucerne’s medieval past.
Old Town Squares:
Explore the charming squares in the Old Town, such as Kornmarkt and Weinmarkt. These squares often host events and are surrounded by historic buildings.
St. Peter’s Chapel (Peterskapelle):
Visit St. Peter’s Chapel, a medieval church with beautiful frescoes. Take a moment for reflection in this serene setting.
Musegg Wall (Museggmauer):
Walk along the Musegg Wall, a well-preserved medieval city wall. Climb one of the towers for panoramic views of the city and the surrounding mountains.
Spreuer Bridge (Spreuerbrücke):
Cross the Spreuer Bridge, another historic bridge adorned with a series of 17th-century paintings depicting the Dance of Death.
Old Town Streets:
Stroll through the narrow, cobblestone streets of the Old Town. Admire the well-preserved medieval architecture, and don’t miss the colorful frescoes on some buildings.
Old Town Hall (Altes Rathaus):
Visit the Old Town Hall, an impressive building with a distinctive clock tower. The Town Hall Square is a great place to sit and absorb the surroundings.
Lion Monument (Löwendenkmal):
Take a short walk to the Lion Monument, a poignant sculpture carved into a sandstone rock face. It commemorates the Swiss Guards who were killed during the French Revolution.
Kapellplatz and St. Leodegar Church:
Conclude your tour at Kapellplatz, in front of St. Leodegar Church. This church is one of the most important landmarks in Lucerne, and its twin towers are visible from various parts of the city.
Relax by Lake Lucerne:
If time permits, take a leisurely walk along the shores of Lake Lucerne. Enjoy the picturesque views of the lake and the mountains.
Flights: 7:05 from Gatwick to Zurich October 14th. October 16th – 21:30 (9:30)
Day One: Drop things off at Restaurant Bunderland Lucerne
- Walk across the Rathaussteg, passing by the Rathaus (clock tower) on the way
- Jesuit Church Se Francis Cavier
- Sammlung Rosengart (art museum)
- Rathaus Breueri for lunch
- After walking across the Kapellbrucke,
- Lion Monument
- Glacier Garden of lucerne
- Old Swiss House for dinner
Day 2:
Will be snow, dress warm!
Lucerne to Engelberg train station (45 minutes) with a free shuttle bus connecting Engleberg to the lower cable car station
There is a first summit with a walk around a lake and there are some restaurants around te lake.
Rotair Cable Car – summit
Old Town
Lion Monument
Jesuit Church – worth going inside (and free entry)
Clock tower (rathaus)
Church of St Leodegar?
Chapel Bridge (Kapellbrucke)
Water tour
Tuk tuk tour?
Glacier Garden
Rathaus Brauerei, Old Swiss House for dinner
Old city walls?
Day 2: Mount Rigi, Pilatus, Titilus